Djibouti is a precious hidden petite gem situated at the entrance to the Red Sea. The country is blessed with the bright intense magnifying variety of colours! The mesmerizing strong deep sapphire blue of the sea; the aggressive black landscapes of the volcanoes; the soft mysterious brown moonscapes of the limestone chimneys covered by the morning mist raising from the bubbling hot springs; the subtle turquoise, mint green and pink hues of the salt lakes; and the glorious shows of the sunrises and the sunsets are unforgettable and unique!
What To See in Djibouti
Djibouti, visa and safety
Lake Abbe
Djibouti Salad – Khat
Lake Assal
Volcano Ardoukôba
The Ghoubbet al-Kharab
Bay of Tadjoura – Snorkeling with the Whale Sharks
What to pack for Djibouti
Djibouti occupies only 23,200km2 and has less than one million inhabitants – half of the population lives in Djibouti city. It is almost impossible to travel alone in this country – there is no public transportation and it might be not safe enough to be alone in the middle of nowhere with no permanent settlements around. The numbers of tourists are very low, and the magnificent landscapes are still preserved in their intact unique beauty. There might be an increase in travelers in the next year due to the Lonely Planet inclusion of Djibouti to the travel destinations of 2018.
Visa on arrival ($90) is available to the most passport holders, with the exception of France, India, Syria and Yemen. However, it is recommended to obtain a visa prior arrival in your country of residence. Required documents: valid passport, travel itinerary and LOI from your travel operator (LOI Attestation d’Accueil), hotel booking and air ticket. For visa on arrival you may be asked to show all your boarding passes – so keep them with you.
Funny detail on the pass control during visa issuing process – you need to apply for your visa on arrival at the control booth, then you’ll be sent back to a small room. The officer let us into the room and went out living his desk unattended with all the documents, stamps and his smart phone switched on with opened WhatsApp chats. Who does THAT?! But apparently Djiboutian officers have no secrets from the few western weirdos entering their country ?
Djibouti Road Trip
We were traveling in December 2017 with a large group of 16 people in 4WD cars and a group of drivers and guides, and we felt safe at all times. Though even with the best guides, you should watch your stuff!
Djibouti Road Trip
On our first day, we had a little incident, when three of the smartphones went missing. Sure thing, the drivers and the guide tried to justify themselves telling stories, that the clumsy tourists must have lost the phones while jumping out from the car taking pictures of the landscapes. Unfortunately, they chose the wrong victim – our tour operator, putting at risk all collaboration with the agency in the future. So, when we reached the first camp one car went back in the dark to seek the phones in the places we stopped. Just as a side note, our drive on the first day was around 5-6 hours. And of course, they came back with all three phones! Nice try!
Good advice: Get a waist belt and keep your passport, money and phone close to your heart!
In Djibouti city, it is not advisable to walk on the streets without a local guide and better to opt to move in the car.
We took the flight from Dubai to Addis-Ababa and then to Djibouti. Arrived in the morning and dropped by the big supermarket (the last chance to pack some extra snakes and buy some “popular” drinks).
Djibouti
Djibouti Salad – Khat
We became curious, when our driver bought a bunch of herbs from a road vendor on passing by a village. He passed the wrap to our tour guide who explained it were a salad, “Djibouti salad”. As we’ve already been introduced to the local “Djibouti Massage” (the bumpy roads), we were very interested, what was that about. The guide just told us it’s a herb that is like a coffee, but since he was eating it we kept nagging him with the questions.
Later found out on Google: “Djibouti salad’s” other name is “Khat” – a herb that is native to the Horn of Africa and the Arabian Peninsula. Khat contains the alkaloid cathinone, an amphetamine-like stimulant, which is said to cause excitement, loss of appetite, and euphoria.
The use of Khat has been a long tradition throughout Djibouti, Yemen, Somalia and Ethiopia, where “Khat Cafes” are a common thing. Khat leaves are chewed and kept against the inside of the cheek. Khat can cause many side effects including mood changes, increased alertness, excessive talkativeness, hyperactivity, excitement, aggressiveness, anxiety, elevated blood pressure, manic behavior, paranoia, and psychoses. Trouble sleeping (insomnia), loss of energy, and lack of concentration usually follow. Stimulant khat banned as illegal class C drug in UK. In the EU, US and Canada Khat is a substance placed in the same category as cocaine, however, traditional users of Khat insist of it having the same effect as a coffee.
Lake Abbe
Our first destination in Djibouti was the Great Barra – Lake Abbe (aka Lake Abhe Bad) – the salt lake in the Afar Depression on the border with Ethiopia which we reached by the 4WD cars in about 5-6 hours. Our driver promised us a special Djibouti massage in the last 3 hours of our drive and we enjoyed it in all its power riding off-road and catching every bump. The scenery changed from the large desert flats to the rocky mountains with almost no greenery and only few nomadic settlements on our way. Plan an overnight stay to see this attraction at its most dramatic in the low light of sunset and sunrise. We were a bit late and farewelled the sun and its dying light behind the valley of the calcareous chimneys of Lake Abbe from the top of a volcanic mountain.
Djibouti Road Trip
We spent our first night in the nomadic camp with basic huts and even toilets and showers outside – the last signs of civilization on the trip. Round traditional tents made of goat skin is a good protection from the strong winds during the night. There were a lot of mosquitoes buzzing close to our ears all night and the stinging flies molested us during the lake walk in the morning. I forgot to use the repellent and got a lot of bites on my legs which left spots for more than two weeks.
We woke up long before the down and were ready to go, though, because of the coffee addicts in the group, missed the dawn at the lake and arrived only for the sunrise. I’ve witnessed a lot of spectacular sunrises, but this one was one of the most beautiful and will stay in my memories forever.
Djibouti Lake Abbe Moonscapes
The South-West shore, where we approached the lake, is covered by the vast bog-like salt flat with the hot bubbling springs spewing forth the steam and nature’s best masterpieces of limestone chimneys which reach heights of 50m, standing still in the clouds of steam condensing in the chill morning air. The view is surreal, and it feels, as if you are not on the planet Earth anymore.
Djibouti Lake Abbe Moonscapes
The boiling springs were once beneath the waters of the Lake Abbe. Hot water saturated with the minerals raised from the Earth’s crust meeting the cooler water of the lake resulted in the deposit of minerals and forming little by little massive calcareous limestone chimneys under the surface. As the water level went down the limestone chimneys were left freestanding reveling the mysterious view. Most of the chimneys are dormant, but some still puff clouds of steam from their summits.
Djibouti Lake Abbe Moonscapes
The springs give live to the rare greenery and the thankful nomadic shepherds grass their flocks of goats and donkeys around. Some lucky travelers might even spot flamingos.
Djibouti Lake Abbe Moonscapes
We spent a couple of hours enjoying the space walk on the moon surface before returning to the camp for breakfast and setting off to our next adventurous stop in the mountains in the direction of the Lake Assal.
Djibouti Lake Abbe Moonscapes
Our second night we stayed in the middle of nowhere in an improvised camp in a Wadi. Our beds were placed under the roof of the starry sky. The toilet situation was a bit complicated with no bushes around there was almost no way to have any privacy, but that seemed not to bother us a lot.
Djibouti Wadi Hike
The next day after the breakfast we broke off for a hike through the wadi towards lake Assal. This day was one of the hardest for me, not sure if that was because of the heat, or if I caught a virus or were those the mosquito bites I got in the first night? Anyway, during our 6 hours hike I felt miserably weak and dizzy and used any opportunity to sit down and rest on the way. In the afternoon I started to take Paracetamol and the next day recovered from the misery.
Lake Assal
Lake Assal (Arabic: بحيرة عسل ‘honey lake’) is a crater saline lake situated at the top of the Great Rift Valley, which lies 155m below the sea level in the Afar Triangle and is the lowest point on land in Africa and third lowest on Earth, after the Dead Sea and the Sea of Galilee.
Djibouti Lake Assal
Lake Assal was once part of the Ghoubbet-al-Kharab but was separated from the Gulf by the volcanic activity. Since then the waters evaporated and the lake shrunk forming a saline desert around. Lake Assal is the second most saline body of water on Earth, coming after the Don Juan Pond. The salt concentration of the lake Assal is 34.8% average and up to 40% at 20 m, which is higher than that of the Dead Sea (with only 33.7%). It is saltier than the Dead Sea and 10 times more saline than the oceans. Three liters of its water contain almost a kilogram of salt. Lake Assal is also considered to be one of the hottest places in Africa with temperatures rising as high as 57 degrees Celsius in the Summer months.
Djibouti Lake Assal Camp
There is a little nomadic settlement few meters above the lake, where we had our stop for the third night. It was the third day with no shower and we were happy to enjoy the refreshment in the saline lake and get the incredible experience of floating in the water without sinking. Fresh cuts or scratches might be painfully stinging as well as be careful not to let the salt water come into your eyes. Fresh water is an expensive scarce good in the desert – we’ve got only about 2 liters each to rinse off the salt, but it was surprisingly enough.
Djibouti Lake Assal - Afar Girl
The sunset with the full moon over the lake was nature’s best theater play ever. The soft gentle turquoise hues of the see merging with the pinkish colours of the sky were stunningly magnificent.
Djibouti Full Moon Over Lake Assal
This night we slept outside under the starry sky with the strong natural air conditioning by the strong wind. We woke up to the marvelous sunrise over the lake.
Djibouti Lake Assal Sunrise
Volcano Ardoukôba
Ardoukôba (Arabic: أردوكوبا) volcano located between the Golf of Ghoubbet-el-Kharab and the Assal lake and is one of the most active volcanic areas on Earth. It had been dormant for 3 000 years till it erupted in 1978 accompanied by the earthquake. The volcano depth is 800 meters and its rift reaches 17 km in width with the summit situated at 298 meters above the sea level.
Ardoukôba is probably the largest construction on the planet. Our Mother Earth has great visions ahead! The Arabian and African tectonic plates are drifting apart by one centimeter a year. Small earthquakes are constantly shaking the region. More and more cracks are opening in the ground, fumes as hot as 400 degrees Celsius shoot up from some of them. The larger crevices are dozens of meters deep and several hundred meters long. While the two plates move apart, the ground sinks to make room for the Red Sea and, according to the scientists, it won’t be long till the Red Sea floods the region and a new ocean, the Eritrean Ocean, will be formed.
Djibouti Volcano Adoukoba
We hiked 5 hours to reach the top of the volcano. This hike is not for a lazy traveler – you will have to cross the volcanic landscapes with no shade in the 45 degrees Celsius and climb the steep volcano edges in the last hour with the harsh storm wind trying to blow you off the volcano rim, but the reward is priceless with the picturesque views over the volcanic valleys and the Bay of Ghoubbet and its sapphire waters on the horizon.
Hiking the sharp slopes of the volcanic surface and witnessing the most powerful forth on Earth, one can’t help apocalyptic images of the Armageddon and chaos, that had happened here, flashing through the mind.
For those who didn’t feel like hiking that day, there was an option to take the ride on the 4WD and approach the volcano summit from the other side through a highway that is only about one kilometer away.
After volcanos, we mounted into our cars and drove few hours in the direction of Djibouti with a quick stop in a rundown resort on the shore of the Ghoubbet al-Kharab cove.
The Ghoubbet al-Kharab
Ghoubbet al-Kharab (قبة الخراب, “the Gulf of the Demons”) is a cove which is separated from the Gulf of Tadjoura by a violent current. It is surrounded by the volcanic mountains and cliffs and is detached from the Lake Assal by the Volcano Ardoukôba. Ghoubbet al-Kharab is very deep with 205m and is home to various numerous schools of fish and sharks. The Ghoubbet al-Kharab is about one meter up the sea level because of the narrowness of the pass, tides and winds. There are two volcanic islands in the middle, that are called “Devil’s Islands” and are avoided by the locals as they believe the devil lives there. There is also a story connected to the famous see explorer Jacques Cousteau, who is said to submerge a corpse of a camel in a shark’s cage, which came up crushed by some animal having a considerable force.
Lake Ghoubbet al-Kharab
Barloy during the emission Sciences with the naturalness of Marie-Odile Monchicourt diffused on October 5, 1987 on France-inter, revealed: “the monster of Djibouti would live in le Koubé, qui est une sorte de petite mer intérieure aux eaux noires et bordées de falaises verticales. Le monstre y serait entré autre-fois et ne pourrait plus en ressortir (soit parce qu’il a grandi, soit parce que les courants l’empèchent de partir). Cette créature ressemblerait à une gigantesque raie. Tous les ans aurait lieu une cérénomie organisée par des habitants du lieu qui considéreraient la bète comme un dieu de la mer. Ils descendent dans les eaux noires du Koubé un chameau vivant, dans une cage, en guise d’offrande. trente secondes aprés ils remontent la cage mais celle-ci ainsi que le camélidé ont disparu. Il y a eu entre-temps quelques remous pour témoigner du drame. Cousteau aurait parait-il réussi à filmer le monstre. Il conserverait le document dans un coffre-fort, avec ordre de ne jamais le sortir. En effet, le film serait de mauvaise qualité et Cousteau craindrait pour sa réputation. Il aurait également écrit une brochure intitulée: la bète ou la chose “
En dehors de ce témoignage qui passa sur les ondes, il y a un mutisme complet
sur le film et la brochure.
Comme le disait le commandant cousteau : ” Mes amis, je crois que la mer nous réserve encore bien des surprises…….”
Lake Ghoubbet al-Kharab
Bay of Tadjoura – Snorkeling with the Whale Sharks
Our fourth night were in the hotel of Djibouti, so finally, we had a chance of a nice long shower! The next day we went to the port of Djibouti, where two boats were waiting for us to take us to the final attraction of the trip – snorkeling on the pristine coral reefs and spotting dolphins and whale sharks. The high season for the whale sharks in Djibouti is from November through January and it’s not the question “IF” you see some, but “how many” you will see. The sharks are always there enjoying the easy food coming into their mouth in the form of numerous schools of small fish. We met around 10 of them. The boat captain would drift in the sea till he spots a shark, then everyone would jump with the childish excitement into the see. The sharks don’t bother of the presence of the crazy humans squeaking around and trying to take the best selfies of their life with a whale shark. When one shark was gone its way, the group would climb back into the boat and the captain would drive to the next shark few meters away. On my first dive I was so excited to face the whale shark peacefully cruising just a meter away, I didn’t notice my GoPro grip broke and my camera drifted into the abyss, I saw it sinking deep down and disappearing in the muddy depth. For a second I thought of chasing it down there, but decided to be better safe than sorry as there was no freediver with us to be able to safety me on this affair. There was no time for grieving the lost camera and the pictured from the whole trip it dragged deep down. The next whale shark was there to play with and then the other one! The best way to view the whale sharks was to dive to around 5-8 meters away from the paddling and bubbling around noisy snorkelers and enjoy the peaceful moment in the depth seeing the shark from below. That’s where all the freediving training finally paid-off!
As a trained freediver and a scuba diver I was a bit concerned about the safety for this activity. The motor of the boat was working at all times, sometimes dangerously approaching people over board. Only the captain would stay on the boat and he has the boat to attend as the motor is running. No one was on watch for the ones in the see. The next time we spotted the shark, everyone jumped out and followed it. Luckily, I was a bit late and spotted one of the girls panicking and drowning. Her mask slipped and she panicked. I’m not a great swimmer and far not a rescue diver. I’ve learned that a panicking person in the water can drown oneself and the one that attempts to rescue. I tried to call the group back for help, but no one heard me, so I rushed to the girl, approached her from the back and kept her head above the water and everything ended just fine. The boat captain saw us struggling but did nothing. There was no safety ring on the boat.
Djibouti Whale Sharks
After the whale shark hunt, exhausted but happy we had a lunch break on the deserted shore of Tadjoura, then continued snorkeling along the shores. The coral reefs are in great health starting from the shores, there are a lot of colourful fish and groups of turtles to be seen. The visibility is not that great with 10-15 meters because of the plankton, but that is more than enough to spot the amazing underwater life of the Gulf of Tadjoura.
Djibouti Gulf of Tadjoura Boat Trip
There are few agencies that offer diving trips or live-aboard options to explore Djibouti’s underwater treasures with around 30 diving spots. There are shipwreck graveyards for a spooky dive. It is also possible to dive in the crack between the two tectonic plates in the Ghoubbet al-Kharab at La Faille.
Djibouti Gulf of Tadjoura Live Aboard
Djibouti is a little hidden pristine world of its own with the amazing intact environment. The local people are very welcoming to the few tourists that occur to visit their petite country. Make sure you put it on your bucket list before it becomes too touristy and commercial. I promise, you won’t regret it!
What to pack for Djibouti
- Travel bag – backpack or duffel bag
- Waist belt to keep your money on you at all times
- Day-backpack – to carry your water and snakes
- Sunscreen – the sun is strong
- Hat – if you don’t want a heat stroke
- Trekking shoes – simple but not slippery – especially for the volcano trek
- Fleece jacket for the nights
- Swimming shoes and swimming suit – the shores of the salt sea are sharp and not easy to access
- Shorts and T-shirts for the hikes, but better pack trousers or long skirts for the Djibouti city
- Head lamp – there will be almost no electricity and you will need it during the night for the washroom
- Insekt repellent
- Sleeping bag to sleep under the stars
- Towel, toiletries, wet wipes – there will be no shower in the camps
- Sanitizer or sanitizing wipes – to reduce the danger of a stomach infection
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